Archive for July, 2010

Day 10, to St Moritz

Sat in the sun with a beer in Pontresina near St Moritz having made it to the first rest day! 775 miles on the clock, but thoseiles today were hard won! Started the day at the Youthpalace in Davos with fruhstuck overlooking a vast sunlit alpine panorama. Had a go at sorting the van which looked as though a bomb had hit it! Found a rucksack of Mums that she’d been missing since the start of the trip! Then straight out and in to the Fluelapass which kicked up straight away and provided an unrelenting but breathless climb of just over 8 miles. Memories of Galibier and L’Alpe d’Huez came flooding back, and you remind yourself once more just how incredible the Tour de France riders are. Coffee at the top, during which Tizz announced that it was one of the hardest things she’d ever done, and Patty joined us for the descent. Wow! Exhilarating, scary and spectacular. Downhill for another 8 miles with a new view at every turn! In the van Mum saw none of it as she kept her eyes firmly on the twisting road and up-coming hairpins! It would have been scary in the wet nut the weather is perfect today. Lunch at the bottom and then the 16-mile climb to St Moritz. This turned out to be easy peasy after we spurned the unpredictable cycle tracks and we made majestic progress, even into a stiffening headwind. We’re now in the hostel for two days and have discovered that the price includes free tickets for the cable car too! There’s even a bike shop attached and we’ve had Georges wheel straightened!
Felt strong today but it’s a timely rest day, especially if the weather stays like this. Some nice photos of the day attached. Have a good weekend and thanks again for all the messages of support!

Day 9, Alps part 3

The commencement of the 25 mile climb to Davos could not have got off to a better start when we were met with “no cycling” signs on Route 28. However, the clever Swiss have thought of everything and there is a separate cycle track! For a while at least….read on! We’d heard that George had seen a very nice dentist who had refused to take cash and simply provided an invoice for the insurance company. He didn’t usually work Friday afternoons so very lucky! He advised George to have a rest from cycling which, seeing as though George had done less than quarter of a mile seems a bit rich!! However, van on it’s way again, although the squeak returned as soon as it crossed into Switzerland!
Tizz asked when we would do some real climbing as it wasn’t tough enough and her wish was granted at Fideris where the cycle route suddenly kicked up and she promptly disappeared out of the back door! The path became increasingly erratic, with gravel sections and all sorts of ups and downs, and at Kublis, having had to wait loads and with time pushing on, I just went on the main road. Still steep up to Klosters, where Prince Charles has his skiing holidays, and conscious that it’s still over 5 miles to Davos and getting distinctly darker (it’s nearly 8pm). We wait to make sure Tizz takes right route through, then Patty kicks hard up a ramp out of Klosters, a move he immediately regrets as the gradients doesn’t let up for the next 2 miles and then steepens again later. He then dies a death for the final climb, Tizz pushes on and I’m left to cajole a reluctant Patty up the last bit. Over the top and down into Davos, we see a X-C skier practicing on roller blades up the other side – and we thought cycling was hard! A final tweak when we discover Davos Youth Palace, our hostel, is up a steep final climb, but after all the delays there’s just time for a pasta at a local restaurant before crashing out on another 70-mile plus day. Tomorrow is the Fluelapass towards St Moritz – I’ve counted no less than 13 arrows on my map for the 14km climb so looking forward to challenging that!

Day 9, Alps Bonus

Sun shining, good roads with great cycleways, making good time, great scenery. What could go wrong?
On this trip, loads! We got Pat and George to ride with us. We rode 400m before Pat needed a wee. George was winding him up. In the melée George stuck an irritated foot in his front wheel, pulling him off, breaking his tooth, buckling his wheel and driving me absolutely bananas!! 40-odd miles still to do, Friday afternoon, and in a non-EU country. Brilliant!
Pat, Tizz and I set off for Switzerland, whilst Mel and Mum started the search for medical help. Stay tuned!!!

Day 9, Alps & Davos

A night of gothic proportions in Bregenz in Austria with thunder, lightning and torrential rain. Mercifully, by 10am it had reduced to a drizzle and we set off towards the cloud-covered Alps, following the Rhine upstream and southwards. The riding was remarkably flat and after finding a top quality backerei for kaffee und kuchen we came out into sunshine! Soon across the border into Leichtenstein.

Day 8, Bregenz

I left the last blog saying that life was good. Never, ever speak too soon as this afternoon and evening has constituted the ride from hell!! It all started with donner und blitzen…one of the heaviest thunderstorms I’ve ever experienced which flooded roads and soaked us instantly. From that moment on the rain has not let up. We’re talking stair rods for mile, upon mile, upon mile, etc. Tizz seized up and I got cold waiting. Then the Germans thought it would be nice to surface the cycle tracks with gravel rather than tarmac! So, so cold and wet! Then another storm. Then it got dark. Then we were held up at a level crossing for ages! I never swore once! I swore constantly and vocally, in 3 languages! After interminable hours we reached Bregenz just after 9pm – we didn’t even notice crossing into Austria! Luckily we rang Mel who guided us to the hostel – they’d had problems too as the autobahn was blocked and they had to queue to get into town. Then they were told they couldn’t park at the hostel and thus had to transfer bags in pouring rain! At some stage this trip must get easier, although 80-odd miles into the Alps tomorrow will be no joke if this weather persists! Just had a shower and a beer so a bit better for now. Have now done about 650 miles – all that way to ride in the rain!!

Day 8 (cont.)

No sooner had we emerged from the coffee shop all rigged up in dry stuff than the sun came out and we had to take it all off again! It reminded me to record Mum’s comment the other day when the van broke down and she explained to the French mechanic that it was really urgent as her “fils est oop la rue sans vetements!” She is also reported to have thanked a waiter at her posh hotel in Metz by stating she was “very gratefule!”. Mel said she sounded like Inspector Clouseau! By the way it’s Mels husband’s 49th birthday today so happy birthday Kelv!! He has assured Mel that any trip he does to celebrate his 50th next year will involve engines!
So sat now by the Bodensee having another coffee in the sun. First glimpse of the Alps at the far end, which is where we’re headed. Great cycle route along the lakeside. Life much better!

Day 8, to Austria

If NW Water need any H2O let them know it’s all in southern Germany! Just reached the Bodensee expecting a dramatic view of the Alps and the lake glittering in the summer sun. What we’ve got is Yorkshire grey with driving, cold rain and a coffee in a place that’s about to shut so we can’t get owt to eat! Have already raised the eyebrows of sedate German diners as we lurched in in dripping lycra!! However, they all understood when they realised we’re from England!! Will end up going to Subway which is next door! Met up with the van by chance so at least an opportunity to put a long-sleeved top on. Cannot wait till Italy and some sun!! Heading on towards the Austrian border which is located in the mist at the far end of this huge lake and Bregenz where we’ll spend the night. No photo in this post – imagine Haworh moor in winter fog and you’ll be somewhere near!

Day 7 Bonus, Black Forest

For Black Forest read Wet Forest!! Regnet, regnet, regnet until late afternoon when die Sonne had the cheek to scheint!! After leaving possibly the best backerei/conditorei in the world just south of Offenburg the route was surprisingly flat along superbly-surfaced cycle tracks that run independently of the main roads surrounded by lumpy tree covered hills. However, they do twist and turn a bit and it’s frustrating on towns especially follwing all the little junctions and often quicker to blast straight through on the road, much to the annoyance of German drivers who have clearly paid a fortune for cycle ways! Tizz off the pace today as she doesn’t like cycle tracks and also complained that it wasn’t hilly enough! She got her come-uppance later, which serves her right as we were lots of hours in the saddle today! Rang Mel 4km from Haslach to find they were approaching fast and thus we had a joyful reunion and celebratory coffee whilst we all talked at once, much to the confusion of the waitress, who for some reason was dressed in traditional costume and had come straight out of the Sound of Music! Basically the van is fine. A sensor switch from the brake pedal had broken, causing the brake lights to be on all the time. This was eventually fixed by the French garage. The squeak is a bit of mystery (I wondered whether it may have been one of Georges escaped dwarf hamsters!) but it disappeared as soon as they crossed the Rhine. My opinion is that the VW is just glad to be back in Deutschland! All brakes, etc have been checked and alles gut!
The cycleways gave out and we started to climb above Hornberg. Alpine like gradients but not enough to require the small chain ring. Sun out and cows with bells round their necks grazed between the picture- perfect wooden houses and clock shops. I pulled in at a roadside fruit stall because I know Tizz loves fruit and she once again suggested that she had failed to grasp some basic practicalities by purchasing half a hundredweight of apples, etc. I said I’d only stopped for a couple of cherries! Bad, busy roads to Bad Durrheim where I am now – we sacked the planned camping for a nice hotel and rightly so as it has not stopped raining all night. However, we had a great meal (even though we once again experienced Germans not accepting anything other than German credit cards) and the rain this morning appears to have stopped. Austria here we come – but fruhstuck first!!

Day 7, Black Forest

Where to begin?! So harassed that I labelled yesterdays day incorrectly! It is Mittwoch 28th Juli and you will not that I’m posting in German, having crossed the Rhine first thing this morning. Another night spent on our own after the van broke down again (!!) leaving Mel, Mum, Pat and George stuck in yet another hotel overnight, some 100 miles west of us!! With no equipment and no phone charger it was getting hopeless so once this morning dawned with heavy, persistant rain Tizz and I crossed the Rhine to Kehl in Germany and spent a fortune on wet weather cycle gear, a phone charger and, bizarrely, sending a parcel to Tizz’s sister Ra with her birthday present within. Just beyond Offenburg now at a fantastic cafe having endured no end of frustration navigating all sorts of cycleways only to find that the German government has decided to replace all bridges across motorways in this area!
Anyway, heading for the hills with some decent coffee inside after a highly dodgy set of meals at the Hostel de la Deux Rives in Strasbourg, after which I nearly threw up in the early hours. Supposed to be camping tonight so hope the weather improves. Sixty-odd miles more to do first! Van is apparently now functioning and aiming to catch us up. Fingers crossed!!
Photo of Rhine crossing attached.

Day 8, to Strasbourg

After the day from hell yesterday today has been a complete contrast. Tizz and I have pushed on from Lutzelbourg, discovering the Canal de la Marne au Rhin which takes us 40 miles on beautiful smooth tarmac straight to Strasbourg, downhill with a tail wind!! Have bought some shorts and a t-shirt and feel like a new man!! 480 miles done and we’re virtually in Germany! Support team still at Metz but vanhas been fixed and they’ll be on their way soon! Phew! Picture of my favourite canal attached, plus arrival at Strasbourg by the Euro Parliament building!