The iPhone satnav led us up some steep hairpins away from Pizzo but we all hoped it wasn’t too far. However, we landed at a semi-derelict oratorium of the same name as our destination, clearly not the right place! Nothing for it but to climb further back on to the main SS18 and head for town. Mercifully, just up a short way, like an oasis in the desert, was a sign for San Leonardo Resort, with a driveway steeper than Goose Eye beyond! I rode up the drive and virtually into reception, so delighted was I to find that it existed. We walked into an apparent wonderland, a mountain-side, air-conditioned huge resort with roof-top Olympic-sized pool and wondrous views over the sea towards Stromboli in the west and towards the route we had just covered to the east.

Not entirely what it seemed, we had a bizarre meal that took hours to serve with some very sparse numbers of staff for the number if people there!  Same thing for breakfast, with bread that had clearly just been chiselled out of a nearby quarry and coffee that was frankly undrinkable!!

So 50 miles or so to the ferry to Sicily, the first three of which went uphill at an alarming gradient to the town of Vibo Valentia.  Desperately busy, but we’re all now adept at weaving in and out of mad motorists and staring down challenges.  Horns are irrelevant as they are used all the time and thus they become par for the course!

There then followed some 18 miles of very pleasant riding with some long downhill stretches, through scenery that was, in places, reminiscent of Tuscany.  Very fertile and green, with much agriculture. Generally good road surfaces and generally considerate drivers – a strange thing; it’s been clear all the way down that the greatest respect and care has been shown by drivers and pedestrians to those of us in full cycling kit. Tizz, who insists on wearing her day-glo tabard and anti-sun gear (for safety!!) is in contrast frequently ignored!!

We were due to meet the van at one of the slightly shabby towns on route, but we missed it and embarked upon yet another multi-mile climb which seem to have slightly steeper gradients in this part of Italy. Still managed to stay on the big ring, but it was nice when the van caught up and we had sandwich and pizza. It occurred to me that on cycling trips most of the photos are of people eating and not riding!!

Back on the road up the hill which was endless!! Looking ahead it all looked very hilly and ominous but, glory be, it plummeted seawards down a fantastic descent which was only ruined by Martin suffering a puncture and having to change tube and tyre!! We waited whilst Tizz plundered some poor chap’s fig orchard, looking over to the now visible Sicily. The ferry was within reach, but we then got caught in the sort of traffic jam that only the Italians could design, which eventually meant us picking up the bikes and holding them above our heads. Car drivers had the cheek to look miffed!! Wish I had a large horn! We reached the ferry port for Messina which was poorly signed – reminiscent of travelling out through Anglesey to get the Dublin ferry from Holyhead! €2.50 each for bike and rider, and we had left mainland Italy! Sicily, and on schedule!! Photos and grins all round (Jo had got the van across earlier, despite not feeling too well).

A 20-minute crossing and we soon met up with the van, and we all set off for the 20-mile or so final bit to Santa Teresa. The traffic (and driving!) in Messina contrived to create a wacky race type of approach where the bikes got in front of the van and vice versa at every set of lights!! Deanne had taken over from Jo and this was her maiden voyage!! We met a Sicilian bike rider on the way who was also a policeman. He runs a biking B&B in Messina and was keen to promote it! Lovely scenery with the sea now to our left as we rode along SS114, with George putting in bursts up the hills in very effective fashion! The towns on route were all congested busy and narrow and the constant horns and hold ups were beginning to take their toll on our tired group. Finally reaching Santa Teresa we went into satnav mode and had a ghastly dance with the van as we criss-crossed the local bridge trying to find roads that don’t exist! We eventually led the van through the town, trying to turn right without success, until we found a desperately narrow turn with a 1 in 4 upward gradient. Then the satnav battery ran out!! It was dusk. The clutch and our legs were burning -what would we find at the top?!!!