The Virtu Ferries ship accelerated rapidly away from the Sicilian Coastline.  A quick blog and a snooze later and already the outline of Gozo, Malta’s small neighbouring island, could be seen off the starboard bow.  The grey outline of Malta, sandwiched between the blue sky and the calm blue Mediterranean, rapidly took on greater focus as we approached, and we were soon idling through the impressive ramparts of Valletta Harbour. This is a great way to arrive here, as those harbour walls have seen such a rich history of visitors by sea, some with hostile intent, some (including some of the heavily damaged WW2 convoy ships) with precious supplies that literally saved many lives. The architecture too contrasts with Sicily and Italy, with a much more Arabic feel.
The van got off and we went down to the car deck to untie the bikes. We rode down the ramp into the blinding sunlight and as we did so a loud cheer went up from a large group of family and friends who were gathered by the waterfront. I rode, flanked by Pat and George, towards the gates where we were all enveloped in hugs, kisses, smiles and handshakes. It was truly great to see so many good friends in Malta, and utterly unbelievable to think that we really had finally made it, on schedule and all healthy and intact.
I was presented with a special medal by 3-year old Ana who is the grand-daughter of my sister’s good Maltese friends Doris and Ray who were also there along with Anna’s mum Yana.  Great too to see Dave and Pam Baybutt and also fellow Hammsters Ian and Tracy, who will now be doing some cycling up Italy in the opposite direction to our trip.
The next leg of the ride was approximately 100m in length, straight to a waterfront bar where I think we confused the staff with a massive order for beer. As we drank, a huge Disney cruise ship pulled away from the quayside, and I couldn’t help reflecting that as the cruisers left to be entertained on the high seas, how much entertainment and drama we’ve managed to generate for ourselves simply by riding bicycles from A to B!
Soon it was time for the final leg of the trip, the 5 miles or so to Marsaxlokk on the south-eastern end of Malta. Remembering to ride on the left we set off in convoy and were soon taking on Malta’s road surfaces and drivers. After Naples, nothing can phase us now!!  Bernard, Tracy, Ian and Martin headed for Birzebugga, dragging Richard with them who then had to ride back to Marsaxlokk as that’s where Jan and the van were! As we arrived at Marsaxlokk we racked up 57 miles for the day, making a grand total for the trip of 2,013 miles!!
Jan and Richard set off for Marsascala and their digs whilst we checked into Duncan Bar which is a bar/restaurant on the ground floor with rooms and apartments above, right at the waterfront. Fabulous rooms, with aircon and fans (paradise!!) and at last some time and space to spread out!! I then ate the most enormous seafood platter at the restaurant downstairs and we retired for an excellent sleep.
Saturday 21st brought a raft of birthday wishes from loads of friends and some lovely gifts, which I opened over a fantastic (and much-needed!) full English breakfast at Duncan Bar. The friendly staff all wished me happy birthday, as frenzied unwrapping revealed a beautiful mounted photograph of the Italian Alps from Mum & Dad, taken the morning after the terrible thunderstorm near Edolo, and from Tizz and the boys a fantastic framed relief map of the Alps and northern Italy, which showed most of our route between the Black Forest in Germany to just south of Pisa. This had been wrapped in a pink blanket in the van since Pontresina in Switzerland so it did well to survive!!
We worked our way up to the beach at Pretty Bay later on where we met all of the others and enjoyed a sensational swim – the weather was so hot that the sea was the only place to be. Tracy showed me a technique she uses with her boys to impose discipline which involves kissing them and hugging them overtly in public. I think it may well be a sure-fire winner, as it certainly sorted Pat and George at the time!!
Back to Marsaxlokk to start sorting the van, including loading the bikes for the trip home with Richard and Jan. Real mixed feelings about “losing” the bike – have become really attached to it over the last weeks, and I still love the whole idea that a basically simple arrangement of wheels, cogs and tubes can enable someone to travel across continents needing only pizza and beer for fuel!!
Then to Al Fresco Bar in St Georges Bay for the party! Tracy had done a marvelous job in decorating “our” section of the bar terrace with banners and balloons, and soon everyone had gathered and were enjoying beer, wine and garlic bread and nibbles. I wore a cake-shaped hat with candles and “50″  on kindly given to me as a present by Barry Thorne of BDSL before I left on that rainy day in July – thanks Barry!!  As dusk gathered a near full moon rose above the bay and, here we were, sat out in the warm Maltese evening air, celebrating! Soon the pizzas arrived and at this point I must convey my sincere thanks to Steve and everyone at Al Fresco for a most wonderful welcome, for reserving an area on the terrace for us on their busiest night if the week, for the superb food and wine and the delicious chocolate cake that I ceremoniously cut with what must have been the biggest knife in southern Malta!  It was also great to meet Steve’s wife Suzie and their young lads Ben and Sam. Anyone visiting the island should make a beeline for a meal here -this may not be too far-fetched a concept as Steve and Mark told me about a charity triathlon that they help to organise each year in early December, and I reckon a K&CAC contingent to take on that challenge should be a serious consideration!!
Jo and Deanne presented me with a great t-shirt commemorating the trip, which I wore over my other shirt until I realised that it was still over thirty degrees and I was wearing two tops!!  Patrick also insisted on taking a photograph of me in front of an allegedly “appropriate” sign in the bar – see attached image!!  An added bonus for me as a Chelsea fan (since 1966!!) was news that the Blues had recorded a second 6-0 victory of the new season!!  Doris and Ray and Yana and Chris gave me presents that they advised me not to open at the bar as they were fragile – when I got back to the apartment I unwrapped them to find wonderful gifts of Mdina glassware for which Malta is world famous: a lovely wine bottle stopper in the shape of a Maltese Cross and an exquisite and delicate glass bicycle, complete with cables, chain, pedals and brake calipers! A perfect reminder of a wonderful adventure – many thanks to our ever kind and generous Maltese friends!
I made a rambling speech and then my sister Mel did a great section where she awarded various certificates to people on the trip and said some very kind words about her old(er) brother!
The party came to an end and with it the final chapter of the trip. Today (Monday) I visited the hospital where many Maltese children are treated prior to treatment in the UK for leukaemia and similar illnesses, and met tne charming Angel from Puttinu Cares, the charity for which we have raised some money that helps the parents of such kids to afford to stay in the UK when they are there for treatment. Tomorrow (Tuesday) I’ll visit the school in Zurrieq where I’ll speak a bit about the ride and again do some media support for Puttinu Cares. I’ll also try to get up to Gozo to watch Silsden Juniors play a match against a Maltese team, although the logistics of this involving Maltese buses and a ferry journey could nightmarish. When I return to the UK I’ll also chase up sponsorship for Bradford Disability Sport & Leisure and Sue Ryder Care at Manorlands.
Whilst we have done this trip there have been constant reminders of how vulnerable we are as cyclists in a world of cars, lorries and frenzied speed. This was starkly brought into focus with news that our good friend, club colleague and fellow Hammster Adrian Zip Jones had been hit by a tractor whilst time trialling near Keighley on Thursday evening.  Zip had been doing tremendous things on the bike in recent weeks but has been quite badly injured and has been in intensive care at Bradford Royal Infirmary. I hear he’s on the mend now and am sure that the fact that he’s basically fit and healthy will see him recover quicker than most – best wishes Zip and we all send our hope that you’re much better soon.  Zip’s trauma and indeed the difficulties experienced by those for whom the charities supported by this trip exist underline to me the very thin line that there is between health and illness, and how precious every minute of life is. That life should be lived to the full, and if nothing else, that’s certainly what I feel we’ve all done over the past few weeks. At 50+, it’s also what I intend to keep doing!!

Thanks!
There are so many people to thank that I run the very great risk of missing someone out and that would be disastrous! So I’ll publish a list of acknowledgments when I get home, and at the same time I’ll expand the blog and fill in some of the gaps and add some more photos.
To everyone who has helped, taken part, supported, followed this blog and encouraged…..THANK YOU!!!!!

We had a superb evening in Vizzini, albeit not without incident! Our host Mr Cataudella took us to a brilliant pizza bar where they make and cook only 100 pizzas an evening in their traditional real-flame pizza oven.  Full size pizzas were between €2.50 and €3.00 each and bottles of beer were €1.00!! They were very surprised that some of us ordered 2 pizzas each and even more surprised to learn that we’d cycled all the way from England to eat them!  They were lovely people and gave each of us a special bag with their full menu printed on it as a souvenir! We also viewed the remains of a Greek amphitheatre just up the street!!

We had some further beers at a pleasant town centre bar (Vizzini is roughly the same size as Haworth) and were once again struck by the mix of age groups and complete lack of any hassle. The table next to us was occupied by half a dozen 15/16 year olds, not drinking alcohol, not causing trouble but notably enjoying their social crack and even more notably allowed to be with and included by adults. If we had been in England they would have had to sit elsewhere on some street corner. Are we the architects of our own troubles with teenagers?

We returned to the house at about 10.30pm as we were aiming for an early start, just as the town was coming to life. That life went on to about 3am, and we heard much of it through open terrace doors as we lay in the sweltering heat. I must have dozed, as I was awoken at 2am by a buzzer which we worked out was the doorbell. Martin went to investigate, and found the front door wide open and George being returned by a very polite and friendly Italian man!! Apparently George had sleepwalked out of the house and down the street to the nearest bar dressed only in his boxer shorts!! Not only had this guy returned him, he’d given George a t-shirt to cover his dignity!! George has never done this before, so this was yet another totally unexpected and bizarre interlude in this amazing trip!! Mr Cataudella called for us at 7am and we collected the van and packed up. I presented him with a bottle of Timothy Taylors – thank you Mr Cataudella for a very memorable evening in Vizzini!!

Following Mr Cataudella’s advice, we took the main road south towards Ragusa and were rewarded with a good surface and gentle gradients. This certainly helped prevent Bernards legs from “lactating” as he so superbly put it!! Cycling early in the morning was certainly preferable to the middle of the – shame it took until the last day to find out!! Poor Martin experienced a series of further rear-wheel punctures, and thus jumped in the van for the final stretch. The latter was mostly downhill towards the sea, and Patty and George joined us to cycle this final bit. It was with very mixed feelings that we passed a “Pozzallo 3km” sign. It’s nearly over!! All that planning, all the imagined problems, all the real problems and all the wonderful experiences. Wow! We met the van by the beach and jumped into the sea for a wonderful swim. 51 miles today and now 2,000+ for the trip. I got a call from Dave and Pam Baybutt who are already in Malta and also a text from Mum telling me to look after George!!

So on to the ferry, and a can or two of Cisk (Maltese beer) while doing this blog. Next stop Malta, and for a short while no-one is relying on me to tell them the way!!

If any Sicilian Mafiosi were around they would therefore have been a bit startled to see a lycra-clad family bust-up in the street, followed by me being advised by Jo just to set off and ride and let things calm down!

That I did, but soon got a text from Tizz saying that she, Bernard, Martin and Richard were not sure of the route and heading for the autostrada and could I wait! I waited by the roadside and did some light blogging. They caught up and we retired to a very smart wayside cafe for a proper breakfast.

Onward up the SS114, the route looked really simple and even the hills towards which we were heading didn’t look too daunting! But……!! We approached an autostrada intersection only to see road closed signs and a diversion on to the motorway. Ignoring the signs, we continued to find that the entire bridge over the Simeto River was missing, and looked as if it had been for quite some time!! We were only 200m from our turning, but we had to embark on a long detour through a nearby industrial estate in search of an alternative that avoided the autostrada!

The iPhone satnav is really brilliant for this – we’d have been literally lost without it this time! One section of rather dodgy road took us past signs saying “private” and “no access” and of course this was the point chosen by fate to bless poor Martin with yet another puncture, and we couldn’t have been more conspicuous if we’d tried!! Finally fixed, we found a bridge and set to to find our way back to the planned route and the meeting point in Francofonte.

It was desperately hot – Richard recorded 42 degrees C!! – as we passed the spectacular reservoir Bonifica del Lago di Lentini on our right and finally picked up the SS194, even though Tizz made a late bid to get lost just before that! There then followed a long hot climb to Francofonte, and lots of messing about trying to identify the right junction to meet the van. The support team had parked at an Agip fuel station that was fully equipped with coffee, food and cold drinks. Trouble was, we’d taken so long to get there that it was shut for siesta!

We were literally mad (guard)dogs and Englishmen (and women) out in the fearsome midday sun! Crazy!! The crew had nonetheless got some bottles of iced water and other stuff so we topped up, had a break and set off for Vizzini.

A 6-mile climb ensued, spreading us out along the road in the heat, where every slight ripple of breeze was like paradise! However, we soon got to the turn-off and from there it was a gentle and scenic descent to the Esso station in Vizzini where we were to contact our host, Mr Emanuele Cataudella. Whilst we ate ice creams he kindly came out to find us and took us to the house where we would be staying – he in his car, the van following and then 5 cyclists behind in convoy.

Vizzini has never seen the like!! We unloaded the gear and then took van and bikes to Mr Cataudella’s main home for safe storage. We’ve got a girl’s floor and and a boy’s floor and fantastic views over the mountains that we must clb tomorrow. Tomorrow is the last day but I suspect Sicily will not give up without a fight!!!

From the entrance side it was a narrow Sicilian street (which nonetheless had a view of Etna at one end) and we went in to a small courtyard with balconies from which hung a variety of washing!

We roused the family owners, and they were very nice, allowing us to lock up the bikes and showing us to effectively an entire landing with rooms and kitchen on the second floor.

At the far end the room gave out on to a balcony overlooking a castle and a pleasant square with bars and restaurants, a total contrast to the other side!

There followed a tearful reunion with Jan and Richard and then some ceremonial hanging out of cycling kit to dry before I went to re-position the van in the street under the supervision of some 5 or 6 septagenarian Sicilian women who signalled to me from their various balconies overlooking the street!  I had a strong feeling that it would be safe overnight given all the local surveillance!!!

Then into Catania for a stroll, a drink and a meal, but only after Jo had received an electric shock from one of the sockets which led to endless jokes all evening!

No air conditioning and a breathless night made sleeping tricky and I even spread a wet towel over me at one stage in order to try to get comfortable. “Breakfast” consisted of some odd bits and bobs in the fridge, with which we didn’t really bother!

Going on memory we fortunately found the right road but it all looked very dubious – a dusty track and some houses in the mountains!

One looked particularly grand however and we asked a women (who frankly looked scared to death of us!) where the guest house was. She sent us up an even steeper, narrower, dustier track where we found locked gates and two intercom buzzers, neither of which was labelled. I pressed both a few times, without any apparent response. Patty, who had urgent need of facilities due to some Sicilian squits, couldn’t wait any longer and climbed a rickety fence, which promptly collapsed! On the other side he met the owner, who was understandably alarmed and distressed to find an English adolescent in shorts rampaging around his garden, and even more alarmed to find several sweaty lycra-clad Britons just outside his gates!! Off on the wrong foot, although to be fair the standard of signage left a lot to be desired!’

A lovely set up with a moonlit swimming pool and pleasant surroundings were what was required after another 80-mile plus day, but bad news was that food (although we were relieved it was available at all!) was not until 10pm! Bernard, who had done the booking, had a bit of a moan and some salami, cheese, bread, tomatoes and wine appeared by the terrace. After a wonderful swim we gathered at 10 for food but it was nearly half past before we got any – not ideal. Then to bed to find that the air con in the rooms did not go below 16 degrees C, which meant another hot night! Easy day to Catania tomorrow – what could possibly go wrong with that?!!!

All easy today, just trickling along the coast, which is why the sudden 1 in 6, multi-hairpin bend hill is such a surprise. It’s the peak of the Italian holiday season too, and everyone seems to want to get there by car and/or motorbike! No rules though.

We stopped to take a picture of Etna (I had considered this leg involving riding up, but the gradients last night were a salutary warning!!) and then a coffee and a snack. Slow progress saw only 15 miles on the clock. Just after our coffee we did actually see someone receive a parking ticket, which must put him in line for some sort of national award!!

Weaving through the traffic, I waited for Tizz, and we had a sort discussion on how well the trip had gone overall!

Ironic, it turned out to be!! We caught the others at a road sign to Catania, but…….no sign if Patty! Bernard said he’d put the boot in and disappeared!! I raced up the road for the next 2-3miles but no sign! So I rode back for 3-4 miles and had a scout round alternatives – stil no sign! So I told the others to stop and rode back, hoping that Pat would find his way on to the right road.

It’s amazing how when there’s a crisis on the Italians rise to it by covering their roads with uneven flags, but I was soon crashing uphill over these before spotting the others. Should we ring the Carabiniere? Whilst I was stopped Jo rang to report that an Italian lorry had removed the offside wing mirror and nearly garroted Deanne so they were at a VW garage just outside Catania waiting for it to open at 3pm!

Marvelous!!!

I rode on, figuring that Patty may just have kept going, but all the time thinking that this is Sicily and that he may have been abducted! He had no money, no phone, no address and no idea!!! What a stress on a so-called easy day!!! I rode to Catania and rang the others to say where I was. Then……miracle! Jo rang to say they had Patty! He’d carried on riding and had, by utter chance, seen the van in the VW garage!!! So relieved, and also ready to give him a good bo*****ing!

Not entirely what it seemed, we had a bizarre meal that took hours to serve with some very sparse numbers of staff for the number if people there!  Same thing for breakfast, with bread that had clearly just been chiselled out of a nearby quarry and coffee that was frankly undrinkable!!

So 50 miles or so to the ferry to Sicily, the first three of which went uphill at an alarming gradient to the town of Vibo Valentia.  Desperately busy, but we’re all now adept at weaving in and out of mad motorists and staring down challenges.  Horns are irrelevant as they are used all the time and thus they become par for the course!

There then followed some 18 miles of very pleasant riding with some long downhill stretches, through scenery that was, in places, reminiscent of Tuscany.  Very fertile and green, with much agriculture. Generally good road surfaces and generally considerate drivers – a strange thing; it’s been clear all the way down that the greatest respect and care has been shown by drivers and pedestrians to those of us in full cycling kit. Tizz, who insists on wearing her day-glo tabard and anti-sun gear (for safety!!) is in contrast frequently ignored!!

We were due to meet the van at one of the slightly shabby towns on route, but we missed it and embarked upon yet another multi-mile climb which seem to have slightly steeper gradients in this part of Italy. Still managed to stay on the big ring, but it was nice when the van caught up and we had sandwich and pizza. It occurred to me that on cycling trips most of the photos are of people eating and not riding!!

Back on the road up the hill which was endless!! Looking ahead it all looked very hilly and ominous but, glory be, it plummeted seawards down a fantastic descent which was only ruined by Martin suffering a puncture and having to change tube and tyre!! We waited whilst Tizz plundered some poor chap’s fig orchard, looking over to the now visible Sicily. The ferry was within reach, but we then got caught in the sort of traffic jam that only the Italians could design, which eventually meant us picking up the bikes and holding them above our heads. Car drivers had the cheek to look miffed!! Wish I had a large horn! We reached the ferry port for Messina which was poorly signed – reminiscent of travelling out through Anglesey to get the Dublin ferry from Holyhead! €2.50 each for bike and rider, and we had left mainland Italy! Sicily, and on schedule!! Photos and grins all round (Jo had got the van across earlier, despite not feeling too well).

A 20-minute crossing and we soon met up with the van, and we all set off for the 20-mile or so final bit to Santa Teresa. The traffic (and driving!) in Messina contrived to create a wacky race type of approach where the bikes got in front of the van and vice versa at every set of lights!! Deanne had taken over from Jo and this was her maiden voyage!! We met a Sicilian bike rider on the way who was also a policeman. He runs a biking B&B in Messina and was keen to promote it! Lovely scenery with the sea now to our left as we rode along SS114, with George putting in bursts up the hills in very effective fashion! The towns on route were all congested busy and narrow and the constant horns and hold ups were beginning to take their toll on our tired group. Finally reaching Santa Teresa we went into satnav mode and had a ghastly dance with the van as we criss-crossed the local bridge trying to find roads that don’t exist! We eventually led the van through the town, trying to turn right without success, until we found a desperately narrow turn with a 1 in 4 upward gradient. Then the satnav battery ran out!! It was dusk. The clutch and our legs were burning -what would we find at the top?!!!

After the break (after we popped into a local Spar for Anthony cold!!) the topography became gentler, but this failed to prevent Patty puncturing again shortly after re-joining us on the road. Sending the rest (including George) ahead, we waited for the van and Patty got on with the mission of fixing all tubes, tyres and anything else he could he his hands on!! I went on down the road at a fair clip, feeling good today with the favourable wind, and caught the others just in time to help fix a rear puncture on George’s bike!!! Tizz had been carrying his spare tube (he has 26″ wheels) and a tube of sun-tan lotion had burst all over it, meaning that the entire operation took place with slippery hands and also that George had virtually no brakes as there was lotion all over his rims!!

By now we had just about reached the turn into the boot of Italy, and we slowly swung westwards through low-lying and extremely fertile land with a real agricultural emphasis rather than the tourism that had essentially been present so far down the coast. It meant too that the following wind became a side wind, and the going got a bit tougher, although the road was flat. We’d arranged to meet the van in Pizzo, where the hills rise up again to the left and where tourism kicks in again. We found the support team frolicking on the beach and we all piled down for an extremely welcome swim! Many Italians were alarmed to see Bernard and Martin, clad in full lycra, heading across the beach carrying their bikes (!!), but when they realised we were English they fully understood!!!
A prolonged beach stay meant that we hoped the digs were not too far away!!

Day 25, Sunday, dawned slightly overcast and even with a spot or two of rain but still red hot.  We followed SS18 out of Vallo in (yes, you’ve guessed it!) an uphill direction, which lasted for some 5 miles or so.  We’d entered a national park and it was beautiful!!  As a Sunday morning ride you couldn’t beat it: no traffic, good road surfaces, steady, curvaceous gradients and swooping descents through the tree-clad mountains. We weren’t alloweedd on the planned route so had to take the old national route instead, but it was worth it as we headed for Sapri through mountain-top villages and cool air.  The first stage was 40 miles and everyone rode really well, including Patty who was putting in some great riding.  A long descent round all sorts of hairpin bends led to the bottom of a valley that was as humid as could be imagined, reminding us of how pleasant it had been further up.  The descent had been steep, leading to fears that the corresponding ascent would be equally fearsome, but it wasn’t too long before we were preparing for the final 10K descent towards the coast and Sapri.  On this trip, however, nothing is straightforward, and a sign appeared saying that the road was closed and the diversion included some extra 10K of climbing!!!  Tizz used the opportunity to do some light fruit shopping, whilst I pragmatically spoke to a local in sign language and established that a minor road by the village school would get us past the block.  This would have worked fine if Patty hadn’t immediately punctured, semi-fixed his wheel and then punctured again!!  I waved the others on, changed the tube and we finally all rolled up at Sapri, which was very pleasant just by the sea and where we all scoffed loads of pizza and pop.  Bernard and Martin decided to go for a swim and chill a bit and hitch a ride in the van, so Tizz and I pushe on along the coast road soutwards towards the “boot” of Italy.  And what a road!!  James Bond eat your heart out!  Tired legs pushed us up long climbs and through rocky tunnels past massive sea cliffs, and then we swooped downwards round hairpin bends with breathtaking views off to the right of us.  Fantastic stuff, but desperately hot at 2pm-ish in the afternoon.  We put another 20 miles in and stopped for a drink at a cafe full of Italian men playing cards.  We struck up a conversation with one chap who actually said “Mamma Mia” when we established that I had ridden from Inglaterre!!  Back on the road, we crossed heavily and superbly engineered bridges and tunnels as we progressed southwards, eventually meeting up with the support crew who were thorough chilled after their swim!  We sent them on to fnd some digs for the night, and as we entered our target town of Belvedere, some 80+ miles in to the day, they met us at the entrance to Hotel Europa which looked to me just the job.  Tizz wanted to carry on to see if we could find a seaview/organic/fruit-producing/cheaper deal, but I took an executive decision and booked in immediately!!  Brilliant showers and air-conditioning, a great view of the mountains and hill-top village, and we wandered down to the quay-side for some welcome food, albet that the ordering was interrupted by an effigy of the Virgin Mary passing by outside as the local folk celebrated an August Festival!  Another 80-miler tomorrow, so nice to have a decent sleep in a cool room!