Day 19, to Viterbo

A good evening at the camp site, which is packed with mainly Italian families who are clearly set up for the summer. On one plot I even spotted a child’s tent with it’s own TV!! Not exactly a silent night, what with discos and strange sirens, plus snoring and mozzie bite scratching, but all OK by the morning when the support crew swung into action and had the van loaded by 9.30am prompt. We tried to meet up with the van in Grosseto for breakfast but it proved impossible in a spiders web of narrow streets. Very pretty though. Breakfast over, we got on to the road to Scansano, little knowing that the majority of the 25km would be upward! Beautiful views as we climbed, and with Tizz the limpet pushing on she and I broke away up a particularly long climb that led up to the town. (Note to Italian planners – how about putting towns in valleys rather than the top of hills?) We refreshed with lollies at a welcome garage and re-grouped for a lovely descent from Scansano, which is a truly scenic place, surrounded by vineyards. It is the “town of wine and oil” according to it’s signs. Bernard is showing signs of sunstroke as he has started to ask why his nipples are hard even in the extreme heat – all suggestions from the www are welcome! The support team meanwhile have been frolicking in volcanic springs at Saturno which is not far off today’s route. All back together again for a late lunch, 45 plus miles done and the same still to go.

Day 18, to Grossetto

Actually just a few km shy of Grossetto in Camping del Marze which has a security system far in excess of amy national frontier we have crossed so far! We had a pleasant ride with Chris Spargo, who kindly pointed our some of the sights around his holiday area: “this is our supermarket” and that sort of thing! During this time Dave and Fluffy got ahead but were tragically lured of the route by an Italian road sign and Tizz and I snuck past to head of into the lead. Thus at San Lorenzo we were forced to have an interim coffee lungo!
A few more miles to Follonica where we found that some of the support crew had been frolicking on the beach! Disgraceful! George felt so refreshed by his swim in the sea that he leapt out to ride the last 10 miles, only to find that the gradients immediately cranked up and Bernard started swearing again “80 miles done and there’s a bl**dy hill” he muttered to all and sundry. The riders beat the van to the check-in but we were soon re-united to spend an hour or so checking in and discovering that our booking was wrong! A huge holiday centre in a wood of cypress trees and very loud crickets which we hope will be turned off later! Two big tents: a boy’s one and a girl’s one and a little one for Tizz who “wants a good night’s sleep”!!! A 90-mile day on total, taking me to 1204 altogether. We were pinging along at times to day, often at 20mph plus. All getting fitter. Just a word too about the charities today: Bradford Disability Sport & Leisure, Sue Ryder Care at Manorlands and Puccinu Cares – if you’re reading and enjoying this blog and haven’t yet made a donation then please do go www.justgiving.com/sportjohntomalta and make a pledge!
Tizz and I got a swim in the sea just before tea, where people gasped as I removed my shirt and shorts to reveals cycling tan and thousands of mozzie bites!!
A great day – good progress and a good crack, and sunny, sunny weather!

Day 18, to Grossetto

A stern test of the new crew on a Sunday morning in Pisa as we aimed to depart by 9.30am. After late night discussions with the hostel owners who had become confused with our slick change of personnel!! We set off at ten which isn’t too bad, and enjoyed a delightful 40km to Cecina, where we were met by Chris Spargo from Bradford University who’s here on holiday. Great to see Chris and to ride a few miles with him until he returned to relative sanity at his campsite and we pressed forward along the most delightful, tree and flower-lined roads through the best of the Tuscan countryside. The warm, perfumed air and the general sense of the Mediterranean make this the sort of section that was envisaged when this trip was planned on those cold winter nights in Haworth!

Day 17, Pisa – finale

A perfect end to the rest day! We’ve been eating at the Sylvia & Claudia Bar just outside our hostel and last night we noticed late on that they and their family were tucking into delicious looking grilled fish and sauce. We asked if it could be on the menu and they agreed to cook us the meal as a special this evening. So after some of the party had been to watch Leeds United lose on TV, we adjourned to just outside the front door at Sylvias and Claudias and were treated to a delicious meal of grilled fish and pepper and tomato sauce. We presented two bottles of Timothy Taylors Landlord as a thank you and we are now on Limoncino liquere and very content! The bar is on Via Santa Maria 79, Pisa and well worth a visit if ever you’re here. Bonhomie photos attached – another great evening – many thanks! Grazie Mille!!

Day 17, Pisa (cont.)

Lots of photos on this day as Dave Hamer (he of the two arms in yesterday’s shot) is a professional builder and it’s not putting it lightly that he’s frankly shocked at the standard of building work in Pisa! He particularly asked me to take some snaps of some tower or other which I did to Charlie’s instructions (Charlie is the one-armed gangster from yesterday). Charlie then took us on a walking tour of the city, one of the most exceptional features of which is the wide range of Keighley & Craven AC gear that is on sale. One memorable pair of shorts is, we all feel, the way forward for the club, and a sample is attached. Probably just a few alterations to the dimensions will be required for certain members (sic)!!
We ambled across the River Arno to the train station to successfully meet Jo and Deanne, who had successfully smuggled several gingerbread men through customs! Now back at base drinking essential beers. Look out for more K&C wear very soon!

Day 17, Pisa

We never sorted the taxis out! We were up at 4am to drive to the airport again, the only consolation being that we now know the way pretty well! Then back again for a couple of hours of fitful sleep and now it’s breakfast time. Mel texted to sat they’d arrived safely in Liverpool and then texted again to say they were lost there too!!! Now preparing Pisa for the arrival of support crew 2 – the sequel – Jo and Deanne!! More later!

Day 17, Rest Day 2, Pisa

Writing this in the early hours of the “rest” day after further adventures with the support crew. After a hearty meal and a couple of beers with the whole crew, Mum and Mel decided it best to head for the airport around midnight in order to save hassle and be there for their early morning check-in. They got a number for local taxis from the bar but were told that you can’t book taxis in Pisa and that they probably wouldn’t come out at 4am anyway! Thus it was decided to drive them out in the van around 12.15am. I drove, and we dropped them off, said our tearful goodbyes, and Tizz and I headed back. Some 30 minutes later we were still negotiating Pisa’s one-way system when Mel called to say they’d been chucked out of the airport and wouldn’t be allowed back till 4am!!! “Regulations”!!! So we drove all the way back to pick them up and bring them back to the hostel!! Hope we van sort something later!!

Day 16, to Pisa

After a leisurely breakfast and a refreshing swim at our organic paradise it was time to pack up and head down to the coast. We discovered from Mariella that it was our hostess Mariangiola’s 69th birthday so I presented her with a couple of bottles of Timothy Taylors Landlord. Mariella went to put the bottles in the fridge but I told that it had to be drunk at room temperature, forgetting that room temperature here is something like 30 degrees!! They looked at the blog and asked about feeding back comments, which others have asked about too. Haven’t sorted this, but you can always email at sportjohn@blueyonder.co.uk if you wish to say hello!
We descended to the coast and possibly one of the longest coastal promenades we’ve ever seen. Mile after flat mile of resort, with ubiquitous scooters zooming in and out and generally making life interesting. The general policy we’ve found is to just aim at where you’re going and ignore everyone else, and don’t get wound up when others do something you don’t like! We had a pizza for lunch (photo attached) and then headed for Pisa, during which time Patty experienced only the second puncture of the trip so far, the other time being in Belgium.
On arriving at Pisa we were quickly accosted by a couple of very shady-looking characters, one apparently with only one arm, whose photo I took immediately to pass on to Interpol (copy attached). They offered to help us park the van but I insisted on taking Mel with me for protection!
Into the Hostel Under the Tower – a delightfully quirky place which, as it says on the tin, is right next to the tower. More about Pisa and our rest day tomorrow, but now it’s time for a shower after 1114 cumulative miles and to toast Mum and Mel who have brought us safely and superbly so far, all intact and bang on schedule!!

Day 15, to Sarzana

It nearly worked! Immediately after our break the sky cleared and the sun burnt down, sending clouds if steam from the drying roads. The climb continued, through beautiful scenery which is curiously non-touristy. Tizz insisted on racing again and we ended up powering through mountain villages with surprised elderly residents cheering us on! Over the Passo del Lagustrella and wonderful views westwards and a fantastic descent to Aulla. Guess what we got in Aulla, whilst trying to meet the van? Yep, a thunderstorm. Blue sky to the left, blue sky to the right: above us – dark grey cloud! Aiming for Cascona dei Peri, an organic co-operative farm above Sarzana, we set mutual satnavs and set off. Bernard, Tizz and I braved rush hour traffic and found the place more easily than we thought. Paradise! A lovely young Dutch woman, Mariella, met us and immediately served us home-made wine on a terrace in the sun, overlooking the Mediterranean 6km away and the villages and vine- covered hillsides. Mel and the van meanwhile had been led by the satnav up a mountain cul-de-sac and we did a phone-linked talk-in so that they arrived 10 minutes before our evening meal! The meal was served on a terrace overlooking the view and we shared the meal with Mariella and the owners of the farm – lovely home-grown food and plenty of wine. A great end to the day! Well, nearly….. then we had to put the tents up in the dark! Bernard was handicapped by a broken pole (!!) which meant that his porch flapped all night in the breeze! It still managed to rain briefly overnight but all is well for the run in to Pisa, where Charlie and Dave Hamer are already sorting out local bars!!

Day 15, to Sarzana

If you know the tune to “A Rainy Day in Georgia” then change the words to “It’s pi**ing it down in Parma” and you’ll know how the day has commenced! Unbelievable – it’s another Bregenz experience! After breakfast which was served by a very short and wizened, but friendly Italian chap in the hostel, we all got immediately soaked loading the van. Bernard and I set off through Parma, unable to read the map or look at the satnav due to the deluge. The ever helpful roadsigns were once again useless and we asked a chap for directions. Bernard later commented that this chap may have just been released from an asylum as even us two could tell from his voluble instructions that he was telling us to cross the Po and head north!! We eventually found the road after a short suicidal stretch on a semi-motorway and set off towards the Italian Appeninni Hills. Rumbles of thunder accompanied us. First van meet in Langhironi and Tizz popped out to ride the next 30km climb. I reported that I had just completed 1,000 miles (legs pictured!). Thunder and lightning and then intense rain welcomed us as we entered the hills, which are beautiful. Tizz “the Limpet” decided to push it on the ups, and soon she and I were literally racing. Bernard continued at a stately pace and we eventually arrived to meet the others at a fantastic family-run pizzeria/bar in Palanzano where we’ve just scoffed some brilliant home-made pasta! Sun is even peeping out so who knows, it may be a drier second half to the day?!!