Day 14, Parma

We eventually crossed the Po some 13km downstream on some lovely country lanes (see photo) and a road occupied by many heavy lorries that were also diverted by the closure of the main bridge. Wobbly photo of the Po attached! Still easy riding but getting to the hottest part of the day and, once again, the final few miles seemed to drag, especially when an effort to get away from the traffic took us on to a cycle lane that led us…..straight back to the busy road! The Italians appear to have a similar attitude to cycle paths as in Britain – they put them in, often as shared pavements, but they become covered in dust, grit and detritus that just begs for a puncture if you ride over it. They are also punctuated by side roads, driveways and other obstacles and progress in any meaningful way is impossible. However, with so many of us riding, we need to be safe too. Eventually an excellent path took us into Parma and a beautiful hostel on the northern edge. We actually did some laundry (!!) and then contrived to catch a bus into town….at least, some of us did. Tizz decided to wander off and buy some fruit (!!) and thus I had to miss the bus to wait and catch the next one with her! A good pizza/pasta place in town, lovely temperature and the only hassle is George breaking a wine glass before the meal is served! A big day tomorrow – 80-90 miles with a climb of about 30 miles – need an early night and a prompt start! First view of the Mediterranean due tomorrow!

Day 14, to Parma

Brescia is a damn sight easier to leave than to get into, and after a good sleep and a pleasant breakfast we set off south. Eventually onto the P24 past Ghedi, we’re beginning to realise that destination signs tend to send you towards motorways and main roads, and there are no road numbers on the signs. Completely different cycling than the past few Alpine days – flat, straight (Roman?) roads through what Bernard tells us is the “bread-basket of Italy. Doing 20mph or thereabouts much of the way. Drivers and lorries very considerate in general. Thirty degrees but lovely breezes – all very pleasant. We crossed our old friend the River Oglio and are now at the Po at Casalmaggiore. We’ve just discovered that the bridge over the river Po is shut here (!!) so we’re drinking coffee looking at alternatives.

Day 13 to Brescia

Emotional reunion with Fluffy and the van all at once thoroughly confused the cafe owner! Piccy attached. Then down the western side of Lago d’Isio, under the cliffs and weaving in and out of tunnels. We loved it (Pat, George, Tizz and Fluffy riding with me) but Mum hated it in the van! We met on the lake-front at Iseo where, by riding to the van and back to top up the van parking fee, I reached 900 miles. Little did I know that it would feel like another 900 miles to cover the 20 or so km to Brescia. I have NEVER been in such a badly signposted and organised road system ever! Every road led to the autostrada, which at one point, in sheer desperation, we rode on for a short distance. Hundreds of cyclists, all in stylish kit, were buzzing about, but signage as to how to get to Brescia was sadly lacking. After over 2 hours we finally rode into Brescia and the I reverted to my iPhone satnav to guide us to our rather idiosyncratic hotel/hostel. Mum, Mel and George were already there, having been guided through the nighate that is Brescia by a very kind elderly couple who told Mel to follow them! Really hot, but mow in the bar with a beer and the world looks a whole lot better! Off to Parma tomorrow, crossing the River Po in the process!

Day 13, to Brescia

On my own this morning, doing the 14km or so downhill from the campsite at Temu to pick up tne route south at Edolo. We must have done a lot of climbing in the last few days as this road went down and down, following the River Oglio towards Italian Lake country. Thirty degrees and sunny further down the valley, but cooler riding the bike. Talking of cool, I rode for a short distance near Breno with two Italian cyclists, all done out in smart matching kit. We couldn’t communicate too well but they got the gist of what I’m doing – what’s Italian for barmy?! All tne cyclists Ive seen since have been immaculately turned out on beautiful bikes; I feel typically British my non-matching shorts and top and grubby bike!! Now at the head of Lago d’Iseo waiting for the van when hopefully others will get out and ride along the lake side. Meanwhile, Fluffy is fast approaching up towards and a tearful reunion is in the offing. Now up to about 860 miles in total.

Day 13, to Brescia

Lucky to be here to record the start of today after a dramatic night camping out in an Italian alpine thunderstorm! Beautiful campsite a few miles from Edolo and after some pizza in the warm evening it seemed like it would be a good night. As soon as we were in the tents there were growls of thunder and spots of rain that gradually grew in intensity to full-scale blitzkrieg! Tizz helpfully said that she knew of people killed by lightning in tent and asked if we were safe! The thunder just echoed round and round the mountains for what seemed like an eternity! Eventually it passed, to be followed by constant rain most of the night. Mum, Mel, Pat and George in the big tent are all soaked this morning, as are Mum and Mels flight tickets home from Pisa! Interestingly, Tizz, who for the past few nights has been unable to sleep, reported that she had slept like a log!
Just mopping up before setting out for (hopefully warm and dry!) Brescia.

Day 12, Edolo

Crossed the Italian border and the roads dried out and the temperature shot up to 26 degrees C! Down to Tirano and a lethal road S38 westwards upon which Tizz managed to go past me while I waited to show her the way. I thought she was behind, so started cycling back till I met the van – they’d not seen her! When I finally got in touch she didn’t know which road she was on but said that there was “a slight dip in the mountains ahead”!! She added that the road was too busy (I knew that!), that it was a crap surface (I knew that too!) and that her phone was about to run out of charge! Brilliant! Eventually persuaded her to (reluctantly!) turn round and I eventually found her at the turn-off to Aprica. By now the temperature was 36 degrees (!!) and we faced a 10-mile climb to Aprica. Beautiful scenery as thecroad wound up, but hellish hot. Tizz stated that she needed a drink but couldn’t because she can’t drink on the move and can’t get started again if she stops on a hill! Eventually reached the top to find the support crew in a lovely little cafe and Mum saying “Grassy” to everything the waitress brought out!
Then a long, scenic downhill to Edolo, which the riders in this year’s Giro d’Italia went up twice in one stage, having already done tomorrows entire leg from Brescia uphill first! Amazing! Drinking coffee and have just been in contact with Fluffy (Bernard) whom we’re meeting tomorrow in Isio.

Day 12, to Edolo, Italy

A cloudy but warm start, straight up the Bernina Pass. Not too difficult from the side we were coming from, but distinctly chilly in the mist at the top. Then a descent to die for down to Poschiavo – unending miles of hairpins and a blur of pine trees, Armco, oncoming motorbikes and adrenaline! Fantastic! In Poschiavo for a coffee, still officially in Switzerland but whole feel is now Italian -amazing contrast with the other side of the pass. It’s also raining!!
Onwards to Italia!!!

Day 11, Rest Day (cont.)

Plans to turn in early were thwarted by it turning out to be Swiss National Day so all evening bonfires were lit all over the surrounding mountains. At 10pm the fireworks started – spectacular displays above the town plus individual efforts by families, all in front of our hostel room window. Then we could see a line of hand-held flaming torches winding down the mountain – really effective. It was even more spectacular for us as we were able to view it all through Tizz’s washing that was strung up outside the hostel window! A great way to end a rest day – piccy of the swimming pool and fireworks attached.

Day 11, Rest Day 1

Lovely to lie in except that church bells started early! Went for a test drive with Mel in the van to hear the legendary squeak, but the van behaved perfectly! Not moaning! Then up to the swimming pool in which we were to spend the next 6 hours! Beautiful! On the hillside, overlooking the mountains, indoor and outdoor pools, spa jets, whirlpool, waterslide and sunloungers. Also hot sun! Water jet massage for tired muscles, and a perfect way for Pat and George to let off steam, especially as the pool was packed with young Swiss and Italian teenage girls! Mel lay on her back in a water jet and started to laugh hysterically as her bikini top started to inflate to enormous proportions! We had visions of her actually taking off and soaring away in paraglide fashion across distant peaks to St Moritz! Mums comment was that if she had bought the bikini in Marks & Spencer then she should take it back!! Everything wonderfully clean and well kept – the place is packed with hikers, mountain bikers, road cyclists (some lovely bikes) and motorbikes. Also some incredible Ferraris, Lamborghinis and the like roaring up the alpine roads. The rivers are a translucent blue but this might change very soon as Patrick has just gone to wash his smalls! Feeling great again and ready to tackle the Bernina Pass tomorrow. Spoke to Dad who has laid the concrete for his new garage – hi Dad! Camping in the Italian Alps tomorrow and meeting Bernard near Brescia on Tuesday. Back in the routine but looking forward to it.

Day 10, to St Moritz

Sat in the sun with a beer in Pontresina near St Moritz having made it to the first rest day! 775 miles on the clock, but thoseiles today were hard won! Started the day at the Youthpalace in Davos with fruhstuck overlooking a vast sunlit alpine panorama. Had a go at sorting the van which looked as though a bomb had hit it! Found a rucksack of Mums that she’d been missing since the start of the trip! Then straight out and in to the Fluelapass which kicked up straight away and provided an unrelenting but breathless climb of just over 8 miles. Memories of Galibier and L’Alpe d’Huez came flooding back, and you remind yourself once more just how incredible the Tour de France riders are. Coffee at the top, during which Tizz announced that it was one of the hardest things she’d ever done, and Patty joined us for the descent. Wow! Exhilarating, scary and spectacular. Downhill for another 8 miles with a new view at every turn! In the van Mum saw none of it as she kept her eyes firmly on the twisting road and up-coming hairpins! It would have been scary in the wet nut the weather is perfect today. Lunch at the bottom and then the 16-mile climb to St Moritz. This turned out to be easy peasy after we spurned the unpredictable cycle tracks and we made majestic progress, even into a stiffening headwind. We’re now in the hostel for two days and have discovered that the price includes free tickets for the cable car too! There’s even a bike shop attached and we’ve had Georges wheel straightened!
Felt strong today but it’s a timely rest day, especially if the weather stays like this. Some nice photos of the day attached. Have a good weekend and thanks again for all the messages of support!